thinking about colours and notes on oil painting

The colour wheel

ref:http://www.oca-student.com/node/93122

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Picking colours –think what will mix and compliment

referring to : The artist’s handbook (fifth edition by Ralph Mayer ISBN 978-0-571-14331-3

recommended colours in bold

black –Ivory black (made from bone) less dense than lamp black (made from tar)

red –blue red:     alizarin crimson  clear and transparent

yellow red: cadmium spectral absorption in area of orange and pure red  vermilion pure red

blue –red blue : Prussian(ferric-ferrocyanide)–described as a greenish blue in the book

or ultramarine    cobalt

–green blue: ? cerulean   phthalocyanine  manganese

yellow– red yellow :cadmium  

lemon yellow -contains more green

orchres — yellow orchre –red shade of yellow

green viridian- blue green

pure green -hooker’s

 

 

 

Oil  painting notes from “The artists handbook of materials and techniques” Ralph Mayer ISBN 978-0-571-14331-3

mid 16th century

good optical quality, flexible and varied effects,colours don’t change on drying. The oils may yellow or crack.

oil allows paint to spread, protects it from atmosphere or mechanical forces, it acts as adhesive,it gives the colours depth and tone.

Oils dry by oxygenation linseed oil high in linolenic acid which oxidises to a yellowness-reduced by drying in daylight but not direct light.

Linseed oil –from flax

stand oil -mixed with turps-used to varnish -does not leave brush strokes and yellows far less

 

Other oils  -Poppy –slow drying easily cracks but less yellow due to less linolenic acid

Walnut oil-  faster drying than poppy, becomes ransid with keeping

Soya bean oil- inferior to linseed                Perilla (from Japan) -yellows

Sunflower oil and hempseed oil  –similar to poppy oil -have been used as linseed oil substitutes

Safflower oils- good replacement for linseed but may brittle  with ageing

semidrying  oils-cotton seed or corn –can by dried with heat–less durable

nondrying oils -castor oil (often added to shellac and lacquers to increase flexibility)

shellac -from deposit left by insects on trees in India-insoluble in turps– used as varnish for furniture –turns dark with age- when mixed with pure alcohol can be used as sizer and as fixative for charcoal

 

Notes from Collins Artists Manual, The complete guide to Painting and Drawing materials and Techniques consultant editor Angela Gair 1995  ISBN 0 00 4125557

Primary, Secondary and Tertiary colours

Harmonious colours –are related and close on the colour wheel primary and next secondary colour

|Complementary colours  are opposite to each other and opposite on the colour wheel. primary and opposite secondary colour  Red v green, yellow v purple, blue v orange.

Hue = colour

Intensity = saturation =brightness

Tone= lightness or darkness

Tonal key –many different tones produce disharmony

Tonal values -light= reflect light, tones modified by surrounding colours.

Counterchange –light against dark creates interest and can take eye around the picture.

Can tone down colours with earth colours

 

Mixing colours  

Complementary colours intensify but when mixed on palette make greys.  Greys produced by mixing complementaries (rather than black and white) are lively and form foils against bright colours.

Split complementaries  : complementaries juxtasupposed produce exciting contrasts –split complementaries are more pleasing than complementaries

Blue –complementary =orange        split complementaries -orange red or orange yellow

neutral tones in a painting can be enhanced  by an area of pure colour